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Fashion & Trends, Style

Milan RTW Highlights:
Top Events We're Glad We Didn't Miss

By Sofia Celeste 03 October 2018

MILAN, ITALY - Fairplay's Editor Sofia Celeste takes you to the catwalk of Milan Fashion Week. Here are her top ten highlights for the spring summer 2019 collections.

DOLCE&GABBANAA procession of black veiled women, accompanied by the low, melancholy bell tolling, kicked off the Dolce & Gabbana runway show, taking us back to the small, baroque streets of Domenico Dolce’s native Sicily. Monica Bellucci, Carla Bruni, Isabella Rossellini and fam, as well as plus sized model Ashley Graham headlined the show that featured real people of all shapes and sizes. The collection was inspired by the culture surrounding “The Leopard” a novel that recalls the last days of the dominance of Sicilian nobility, after Italy’s reunification.

PRADAMiuccia Prada was the toast of the town after she put the Miuccia back into the Prada label. Her spring summer was more girly, nostalgic, dreamy and perhaps back to her roots, than it has been in a long time. Perhaps the most standout ensemble was a satin A-line skirt paired with a plunging, banded bodysuit and chunky headband made out of material the brand now uses for coats. There were quirky urban prints, new, yet vintage looking renditions of the Prada logo, splashes of intricate adornments like the sci fi floral sequins that she’s known for and innovative nylon outfits designed by international architects. Spectators felt like this was really HER.

MONCLER - Moncler unfurled the second edition of its Genius project that featured a series of films to showcase its latest round of collaborations with Simone Rocha, Craig Green and Noir. Guests were led into several rooms of an old industrial space to view floor to ceiling video projections of the meaning behind the clothes. Some left us all pondering ... like Rocha’s abstract film for featuring models who were gardening and rearranging plastic in the soil wearing floral dresses and aprons with veiled hats.

MISSONI - After selling a large part of their company to an Italian fund, the family can finally breathe a bit and staged a 65th anniversary show overlooking Milan’s new modern skyline. As the guests enjoyed the night breeze, pianist Michael Nyman filled the air with nostalgic tunes. The collection featured mens and womens looks, in soft pastels and transparent, sinewy numbers that pointed to the brand’s rebirth.

VERSACE - “She is always THAT woman. The one who is never afraid,” said the Versace press release prior to the show. A trailblazer for women’s rights, Donatella is known to push the envelope and break barriers when it comes to race and equality. Her show, was a mix of racy, upbeat looks like off the shoulder dresses, as as more conservative ones like pantsuits and longer, floral dresses. On the same token, the model lineup which featured the fabulous four: Kaia, Kendall, Bella and Gigi, as well as Shalom Harlow, who closed the show to a loud applause.

MARNI - Francesco Risso did not have an easy job when he inherited the Marni label from Consuelo Castiglioni, who basically lived the art that made Marni famous. This season, the designer, who graduated from Central Saint Martins and has worked under some of Italy's most prominent designers: Anna Molinari, Alessandro Dell'Acqua and most recently Miuccia Prada, finally settled into his own and churned out a spring summer collection filled with punk vibes that were all his own. On a more feminine note, Risso designed some asymmetrical apron dresses and a crowd pleasing red overcoat adorned with splotches of white paint. A more commercially palatable collection, he also was very clever in drawing attention back to Marni’s accessories. There were gold plated leaves and jumbo guided coral earrings that really stood out.

MARCO DE VINCENZO - A tribute to real Sicilian life, Marco de Vincenzo took us inside a real ghetto in the heart of Messina, where he was born in 1978. Mesh bags with Sicilian oranges inside paired with more street style looks like sweatshirts with clever pleating in the back, showed the contrast of daily life.

ETRO - A Tribute to Paisley. The Etro family celebrated 50 years this year, opening an exhibit at the Mudec museum. The collection was also a tribute to the patterns that made them famous. Veronica Etro opted for a lazy, surfer girl theme, casting two top surfer girls: Victoria Vergara and Maribel Koucke.

PLEIN CRAZY - For spring summer 2019, Philipp Plein made it rain fire, which had some spectators jumping out of their seats, afraid of being burnt. All was well. In a tribute to Micheal Jackson, model Winnie Harlow stole the show in silver biker boots, while another rolled down the runway in a g-string. Plein, no stranger to stiring a buzz, invited Chris Brown, dance duo Ayo and Teo, rapper 6ix9ine and the cast of Cirque le Soir.

ACT N°1 - It's lovely to see the sense of poetry that emanates from young designers and Act N°1, a newcomer on the Milan fashion scene was all about an inner message. "There can be no freedom if young women are forced to marry," said co designer Galib Gassanoff backstage, after unfurling a show of contrasts: Commercial items like silk slip dresses, followed by silk wedding gowns draped over hoodie sweatshirts modelled by young girls adorned with veils - to really drive their message home.

 

 

 

Sofia Celeste
FAIRPLAY Editor-in-Chief

When she is not hunting down the latest in tech and fashion, Sofia Celeste is scouting artisan talent for her online magazine bacoluxury.com. Born in the US and raised on the Pacific Island of Guam, she went on to write for Dow Jones Newswires and the Wall Street Journal. Her work is now regularly published in top fashion publications NOWFASHION and WWD.

MILAN, ITALY - Fairplay's Editor Sofia Celeste takes you to the catwalk of Milan Fashion Week. Here are her top ten highlights for the spring summer 2019 collections.

DOLCE&GABBANAA procession of black veiled women, accompanied by the low, melancholy bell tolling, kicked off the Dolce & Gabbana runway show, taking us back to the small, baroque streets of Domenico Dolce’s native Sicily. Monica Bellucci, Carla Bruni, Isabella Rossellini and fam, as well as plus sized model Ashley Graham headlined the show that featured real people of all shapes and sizes. The collection was inspired by the culture surrounding “The Leopard” a novel that recalls the last days of the dominance of Sicilian nobility, after Italy’s reunification.

PRADAMiuccia Prada was the toast of the town after she put the Miuccia back into the Prada label. Her spring summer was more girly, nostalgic, dreamy and perhaps back to her roots, than it has been in a long time. Perhaps the most standout ensemble was a satin A-line skirt paired with a plunging, banded bodysuit and chunky headband made out of material the brand now uses for coats. There were quirky urban prints, new, yet vintage looking renditions of the Prada logo, splashes of intricate adornments like the sci fi floral sequins that she’s known for and innovative nylon outfits designed by international architects. Spectators felt like this was really HER.

MONCLER - Moncler unfurled the second edition of its Genius project that featured a series of films to showcase its latest round of collaborations with Simone Rocha, Craig Green and Noir. Guests were led into several rooms of an old industrial space to view floor to ceiling video projections of the meaning behind the clothes. Some left us all pondering ... like Rocha’s abstract film for featuring models who were gardening and rearranging plastic in the soil wearing floral dresses and aprons with veiled hats.

MISSONI - After selling a large part of their company to an Italian fund, the family can finally breathe a bit and staged a 65th anniversary show overlooking Milan’s new modern skyline. As the guests enjoyed the night breeze, pianist Michael Nyman filled the air with nostalgic tunes. The collection featured mens and womens looks, in soft pastels and transparent, sinewy numbers that pointed to the brand’s rebirth.

VERSACE - “She is always THAT woman. The one who is never afraid,” said the Versace press release prior to the show. A trailblazer for women’s rights, Donatella is known to push the envelope and break barriers when it comes to race and equality. Her show, was a mix of racy, upbeat looks like off the shoulder dresses, as as more conservative ones like pantsuits and longer, floral dresses. On the same token, the model lineup which featured the fabulous four: Kaia, Kendall, Bella and Gigi, as well as Shalom Harlow, who closed the show to a loud applause.

MARNI - Francesco Risso did not have an easy job when he inherited the Marni label from Consuelo Castiglioni, who basically lived the art that made Marni famous. This season, the designer, who graduated from Central Saint Martins and has worked under some of Italy's most prominent designers: Anna Molinari, Alessandro Dell'Acqua and most recently Miuccia Prada, finally settled into his own and churned out a spring summer collection filled with punk vibes that were all his own. On a more feminine note, Risso designed some asymmetrical apron dresses and a crowd pleasing red overcoat adorned with splotches of white paint. A more commercially palatable collection, he also was very clever in drawing attention back to Marni’s accessories. There were gold plated leaves and jumbo guided coral earrings that really stood out.

MARCO DE VINCENZO - A tribute to real Sicilian life, Marco de Vincenzo took us inside a real ghetto in the heart of Messina, where he was born in 1978. Mesh bags with Sicilian oranges inside paired with more street style looks like sweatshirts with clever pleating in the back, showed the contrast of daily life.

ETRO - A Tribute to Paisley. The Etro family celebrated 50 years this year, opening an exhibit at the Mudec museum. The collection was also a tribute to the patterns that made them famous. Veronica Etro opted for a lazy, surfer girl theme, casting two top surfer girls: Victoria Vergara and Maribel Koucke.

PLEIN CRAZY - For spring summer 2019, Philipp Plein made it rain fire, which had some spectators jumping out of their seats, afraid of being burnt. All was well. In a tribute to Micheal Jackson, model Winnie Harlow stole the show in silver biker boots, while another rolled down the runway in a g-string. Plein, no stranger to stiring a buzz, invited Chris Brown, dance duo Ayo and Teo, rapper 6ix9ine and the cast of Cirque le Soir.

ACT N°1 - It's lovely to see the sense of poetry that emanates from young designers and Act N°1, a newcomer on the Milan fashion scene was all about an inner message. "There can be no freedom if young women are forced to marry," said co designer Galib Gassanoff backstage, after unfurling a show of contrasts: Commercial items like silk slip dresses, followed by silk wedding gowns draped over hoodie sweatshirts modelled by young girls adorned with veils - to really drive their message home.

 

 

 

Sofia Celeste
FAIRPLAY Editor-in-Chief

When she is not hunting down the latest in tech and fashion, Sofia Celeste is scouting artisan talent for her online magazine bacoluxury.com. Born in the US and raised on the Pacific Island of Guam, she went on to write for Dow Jones Newswires and the Wall Street Journal. Her work is now regularly published in top fashion publications NOWFASHION and WWD.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photo: Vogue, Act N°

Photo: Vogue, Act N°

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