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Fashion & Trends, Tech

It's All in the Yarns

By Sofia Celeste 04 luglio 2017

FLORENCE, ITALY – Pitti Filati’s 81st addition showed us exactly where the trends on the runway start. From the couture looks in Paris to the trendy knits driving the street wear movement, yarns make all the difference. Yarn-makers make mood boards and observe cultural, tech and style influences just like designers do.

Pitti Filati, is the world's premier showcase for Italy's top fibres. Many mills are focusing more than ever on tech yarns, sustainable and up-cycled knits and wool's eco-spirit.

Pitti Filati's artistic director Angelo Figus and knitwear expert Nicola Miller talked to FAIRPLAY about the prominent trends for Autumn Winter 2018/19,  and why Rudolf Steiner, an Austrian philosopher, who was known for his esoteric spiritual movement is at the heart of the upcoming season's yarns.

There is a lot of talk about wool prices rising. Have you noticed a push to alternative materials - natural or synthetic? If so, which ones?

Nicola Miller: Higher prices are not expected to compromise the desire for pure wool, which has so many wonderful properties such as heat control and natural elasticity. Yarns that have wool as a component, together with other fibres, may see wool's percentage reduced but not replaced.

What are some of the main themes for the next winter and fall season?

Angelo Figus: The main theme is education and that something that is missing on every level. Rudolf Steiner is the key for the future in terms of aesthetics, art, music, education, tolerance, respect for nature, nutrition, medicine -- and humans finding full balance with nature and spirit.

What inspired you when coming up with the main themes for Pitti Filati and to use Steiner as an inspiration for the mood board?

AF: The hard times we live in, the absence of clear direction, the superficiality of humanity and the reaction to it. We need to read books again and search for beauty in a more human sense. The reasons are to be found in every newspaper.

Yarns like Alpaca are making a push towards defining themselves as a luxury material... There was even a stand from Peru introducing Alpaca as a luxury fibre. Why do you think that is?

NM: In the past, Alpaca has been more specifically masculine in terms of yarn, but it is really soft, which makes it recognisable as a luxury yarn for all markets. The fact that it is natural as a fibre by definition makes it have this innate nobility because they are part of our environment. They are not the result of technical manipulation.

What colours figured in prominently for the next fall and winter?

AF: It was was all about combinations that will make the difference: masculine tones of dark blue and grey and green mixed with pastels like light blue and pink and yellow. There were some fleshy camels and naturals. Child-like colors like celestial blue and pink, milk, carrot orange and acqua green. A vibrating mix of primary and secondary colors as well as some powdery colors.

Ath-leisure continues to be a growing trend. Any innovations in that area?

NM: Tech fibres have become extremely sophisticated in their performance properties. Wool in its finest microns continues to be a natural alternative to synthetic yarns.

How is technology enhancing Italian yarns and fabrics?

NM: Technology provides state of the art mechanical and processing solutions in the construction of yarns.

 

  

 



Sofia Celeste
FAIRPLAY Editor-in-Chief

When she is not hunting down the latest in tech and fashion, Sofia Celeste is scouting artisan talent for her online magazine bacoluxury.com. Born in the US and raised on the Pacific Island of Guam, she went on to write for Dow Jones Newswires and the Wall Street Journal. Her work is now regularly published in top fashion publications NOWFASHION and WWD.

FLORENCE, ITALY – Pitti Filati’s 81st addition showed us exactly where the trends on the runway start. From the couture looks in Paris to the trendy knits driving the street wear movement, yarns make all the difference. Yarn-makers make mood boards and observe cultural, tech and style influences just like designers do.

Pitti Filati, is the world's premier showcase for Italy's top fibres. Many mills are focusing more than ever on tech yarns, sustainable and up-cycled knits and wool's eco-spirit.

Pitti Filati's artistic director Angelo Figus and knitwear expert Nicola Miller talked to FAIRPLAY about the prominent trends for Autumn Winter 2018/19,  and why Rudolf Steiner, an Austrian philosopher, who was known for his esoteric spiritual movement is at the heart of the upcoming season's yarns.

There is a lot of talk about wool prices rising. Have you noticed a push to alternative materials - natural or synthetic? If so, which ones?

Nicola Miller: Higher prices are not expected to compromise the desire for pure wool, which has so many wonderful properties such as heat control and natural elasticity. Yarns that have wool as a component, together with other fibres, may see wool's percentage reduced but not replaced.

What are some of the main themes for the next winter and fall season?

Angelo Figus: The main theme is education and that something that is missing on every level. Rudolf Steiner is the key for the future in terms of aesthetics, art, music, education, tolerance, respect for nature, nutrition, medicine -- and humans finding full balance with nature and spirit.

What inspired you when coming up with the main themes for Pitti Filati and to use Steiner as an inspiration for the mood board?

AF: The hard times we live in, the absence of clear direction, the superficiality of humanity and the reaction to it. We need to read books again and search for beauty in a more human sense. The reasons are to be found in every newspaper.

Yarns like Alpaca are making a push towards defining themselves as a luxury material... There was even a stand from Peru introducing Alpaca as a luxury fibre. Why do you think that is?

NM: In the past, Alpaca has been more specifically masculine in terms of yarn, but it is really soft, which makes it recognisable as a luxury yarn for all markets. The fact that it is natural as a fibre by definition makes it have this innate nobility because they are part of our environment. They are not the result of technical manipulation.

What colours figured in prominently for the next fall and winter?

AF: It was was all about combinations that will make the difference: masculine tones of dark blue and grey and green mixed with pastels like light blue and pink and yellow. There were some fleshy camels and naturals. Child-like colors like celestial blue and pink, milk, carrot orange and acqua green. A vibrating mix of primary and secondary colors as well as some powdery colors.

Ath-leisure continues to be a growing trend. Any innovations in that area?

NM: Tech fibres have become extremely sophisticated in their performance properties. Wool in its finest microns continues to be a natural alternative to synthetic yarns.

How is technology enhancing Italian yarns and fabrics?

NM: Technology provides state of the art mechanical and processing solutions in the construction of yarns.

 

  

 



Sofia Celeste
FAIRPLAY Editor-in-Chief

When she is not hunting down the latest in tech and fashion, Sofia Celeste is scouting artisan talent for her online magazine bacoluxury.com. Born in the US and raised on the Pacific Island of Guam, she went on to write for Dow Jones Newswires and the Wall Street Journal. Her work is now regularly published in top fashion publications NOWFASHION and WWD.